Gap's autumn campaign landed on Tuesday, and the notable thing about it is how familiar the construction is. Denim on your own pairs Inde Navarrette, who broke out in this year's horror hit Obsession, with the singer-songwriter Malcolm Todd, who recorded a cover of Robyn's Dancing on My Own specifically for it. The two dance through cavernous white spaces in a spot shot to look like a music video.

That is the third time this year Gap has assembled the same components: a rising name from screen or music, a well-worn song from an earlier decade, choreography, and clothes that stay in frame throughout.

The Katseye campaign, set to Kelis's 2003 track Milkshake, is the one that proved the formula worked — 8 billion media impressions, over 500 million platform views, and double-digit growth in the denim category. Last month's Hailey Bieber capsule collection, themed on nineties nostalgia and baggier cuts, ran to The Cranberries' Linger. Reaching for Robyn's 2010 hit continues the pattern exactly.

The retailer frames this as a long history of backing emerging artists and self-expression, which is true and is also a repeatable production template. Todd is heading into a sold-out North American tour behind his album Do That Again; Navarrette came out of an indie box-office success. Both were affordable before they became obvious.

Tanu Muiño directed the spot, with Calvin Leung, Gap's head of creative, leading creative direction, Alastair McKimm on fashion and image, and Bjorn Loos photographing. It rolls out across Gap's owned channels — social, email, retail floors — plus out-of-home, with billboards on Sunset Boulevard and in Times Square, and paid media running on YouTube, TikTok, Meta and Pinterest alongside creator partnerships.

The timing is deliberate: peak back-to-school. The clothes on screen are the Mid-Rise Straight Taper Jean and a nineties Loose Jean, from a collection the brand says was designed around fit and versatility, with utility-influenced colours and revised silhouettes.

What makes the repetition defensible is that the numbers have moved. Comparable sales — the measure that indicates whether a retailer is actually healthy rather than merely larger — rose 10% against the same quarter last year to $796 million, a tenth consecutive quarter of positive comps. For a brand that spent years being written off, aligning itself with a Gen Z audience nostalgic for a mall era it never experienced has turned out to be a workable strategy.

The open question is how long the formula holds before the audience starts recognising it as one.